The Médoc boasts 59 Grand Cru Classés; a mere five have ascended to the celestial rank of Premier Grand Cru Classé. Of that fabled five, two bear the most celebrated name in the world of wine—Rothschild: Lafite-Rothschild and Mouton-Rothschild, each crafted by a separate—and occasionally warring—branch of this noble family.


To say that I refuse to take part in these wars would be an understatement. I love both more than I can afford (literally) to admit. Over the centuries, millionaire collectors (well, billionaires today) have spent many a well-lubricated evening debating which wine reigns supreme. I'll settle that debate right now: the difference between Lafite and Mouton lies not in "better or worse" but in personality—Lafite’s air of ultra-refined aristocratic restraint versus Mouton’s theatrical exuberance. For my part, both branches of the family are welcome in my home day or night—no RSVP required.

That open welcome extends with even greater ardor to my pick for this week: 2022 Escudo Rojo Gran Reserva, the flagship of Mouton-Rothschild’s Chilean estate. Why? Because it’s a classic Rothschild wine at a marvelously un-Rothschildian price. This Bordeaux-style blend is Mouton to its fingertips, with all the exuberant richness that “Mouton” implies. But unlike its Bordeaux cousin, I don't have to raid my 401(k) to afford it: just $15.99 on case purchases of 12 bottles or more ($16.99 for 1-11 bottles; reg. $19.99).

Why I love it: While stylistically reminiscent of its Pauillac cousin, it most certainly is not a clone. Chile is not Bordeaux—each terroir has something unique to offer. At heart, Escudo Rojo is a Mouton-inspired blend of Bordeaux grape varieties brilliantly adapted to the distinct terroir of Chile's Valle Central. The result is a wine of structure and polish that reflects both place and Mouton pedigree. But wait (as they say on TV), there's more!

Calling all Opus One fans: Escudo Rojo is going to make your day. As I was writing this and reflecting on its Mouton-like richness, it struck me that as much as it called to mind Mouton, it evoked fond memories of Opus One, the groundbreaking joint venture between Mouton and Robert Mondavi (now solely owned by Mouton). On second thought, maybe that shouldn't have been such a surprise. Chile with its coastal influences and distinctive terroirs isn't all that different from Napa Valley. Is it more like Mouton or Opus One? That’s a delicious question I’ll be happy to revisit—bottle by bottle.

Enjoy with: If you happen to be in Pauillac (wouldn't that be nice—the spring flowering is so beautiful there), I highly recommend the home-grown Pauillac lamb—remarkably, it too has Pauillac's gout de terroir. If you're in Santiago, look for the richly spiced longaniza sausage—a local favorite. But if you're here at home, no worries. This Bordeaux-style wine pairs beautifully with a range of favorites: roast duck with thyme, beef slow-braised in red wine, or earthier dishes like lentils with sausage or a mushroom ragout. Even a simple roast chicken lets the wine sing. Decant it, serve it slightly cool, and enjoy a su ritmo, con gusto—as the Chileans say, at your own pace, with pleasure.

As in Bordeaux (and Burgundy, and the Rhône, and Napa, and... everywhere), great wines can only come from great vineyards. Mouton’s commitment to vineyard quality is faithfully honored in Escudo Rojo. The grapes come exclusively from old vine vineyards in the Valle Central, to the south of Santiago. The north is arid with stony subsoil, while the south has clay soil, which naturally holds the scant water supply better. The Rothschilds’ vineyards are a patchwork of different terroirs, each of which gives a winemaker a wider palette to choose from. As at Mouton, the blending of different terroirs – as much as different grape varieties – is a crucial stage in defining the style of the wine. Escudo Rojo’s style unites Chile’s complex, mineral-laden goût de terroir with Mouton richness, producing a round, fruity, and elegant wine that bursts from the glass with juicy, expressive fruit.

** 2022 Escudo Rojo is made from 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Carmenere, 4% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. As at Mouton, grapes are hand-picked (hardly a given at most Chilean estates) and undergo scrupulous sorting to ensure that only unblemished grapes make the cuvée. Fermentation occurs in temperature-controlled tanks, followed by aging in a combination of new and second-year French oak barrels retired from Mouton.

** How important is the quality of the French barrique? I've developed a simple formula: the farther your winery is from Bordeaux, the lower the quality of the oak the French will send you – unless your winery is owned by a Bordelaise. I shall say no more.

** "Escudo Rojo" is a reverent nod to the Rothschild name ("red shield" in German) and family coat of arms. Only a cynic (like me) would suspect a slightly arch contrast to the rather more spartan shield on the label of Lafite.

Tasting Note

2022 Escudo Rojo Gran Reserva

Generous, ripe, and luminously fruity, the 2022 Escudo Rojo Gran Reserva is a brilliant expression of the Mouton Rothschild style in Chilean terroir. The elegant nose features an array of strawberries and black cherries, with a distinct hit of Pauillac-like cedar, joined by exotic spices, and a hint of grilled herbs. On the palate, the wine is juicy and medium- to full-bodied, with vivid red and black fruit flavors emerging on the entry. These are followed by deeper notes of mocha and spice through the midpalate, underpinned by firm, very fine-grained tannins. The finish is long, polished, and complex, seamlessly combining Cabernet’s structure with the plush textures of Syrah and Carmenère.

–– Ben Giliberti, CW Director of Wine Education