Ben's Pick: Sellout Alert!
Ben Giliberti, CW Director of Wine Education
This is always one of my favorite weeks, when I get to rave once again about one of the greatest bargains in fine wine: the exquisite Viognier of Rhône legend Alain Jaume. Every time we’ve offered this gem, your response has been immediate and overwhelming—and I expect the same this time, especially since we’ve sharpened our pencils to keep the price the same as last year’s sellout: 2024 Domaine Grand Veneur Côtes du Rhône Blanc "Les Champauvins"—$17.99 on case purchases of 12 bottles or more ($18.99 for 1–11; reg. $22.99). If past is prologue, our supply won’t last long. To avoid disappointment, please order promptly.What makes it special: Robert Parker has hailed Alain Jaume as having the "Midas touch" when it comes to white grapes. I could not have said it better. Top-tier Viognier is a rare and distressingly expensive (at least for me) experience – $50 and up. The grape is responsible for the great Rhône white wines of Condrieu and Château Grillet (a tiny monopole tucked inside the already tiny Condrieu).Viognier struggles outside these two tiny Northern Rhône enclaves. Even nearby Hermitage and St.-Joseph, which produce outstanding whites from other grape varieties, have come up empty with Viognier. That Jaume captures the elusive magic of high-end Viognier in the warmer Southern Rhône is an astonishing – and welcome – achievement for wine lovers on a budget.What it tastes like: Even crisper, livelier, and more arresting than last year's model, the just-released 2024 Les Champauvins Viognier is a masterpiece of juicy opulence and aristocratic restraint. It glows with notes of yellow peach, sliced apple, and apricot, finishing with a tantalizing dash of minerality and Asian spice.Loves great food (confession: so do I—just ask my, umm… belt): Try it with jumbo shrimp, Chilean sea bass, vegetarian dishes, veal or chicken cutlets, and other light meats and poultry. For me, drinking a fine Viognier like this makes any meal feel special (and I don't have to worry about the bill!).Here are the details:** Domaine Grand Veneur Blanc de Viognier comes exclusively from the Les Champauvins vineyard, which is located inches outside the official Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC (close enough for horseshoes, but far enough to keep the price about one-third of what it otherwise would be). While Les Champauvins has always been the grape source, only recently has its name graced the label – a long-overdue tribute to a remarkable vineyard. Total production is less than 500 cases, making this cuvée a true rarity. ** Alain Jaume believes the fruit should speak for the wine rather than wood or oak aging. Thus, his Les Champauvins Viognier is fermented and aged entirely without oak (which should be the case for virtually all Viognier, but that's another discussion). The wine is bottled six months after harvest and is delectably ready to drink now, with an aging potential of one to two years.** Alain Jaume follows strictly organic cultivation and winemaking. Yields are tightly controlled by green harvesting carried out by hand in summer. Leaves are thinned out around the grapes to keep the clusters well-ventilated. Chemical treatments are rigorously avoided.** 2024 was an old-school cool vintage in the Southern Rhône, and you can taste the vibrant, cool-season freshness and minerality in the glass. At the same time, it retains the tantalizing suggestions of opulence I so love in Viognier. Thanks to the large, healthy harvest, prices have remained stable—welcome news!
Tasting Note
2024 Domaine Grand Veneur Côtes du Rhône Blanc "Les Champauvins"The superstar grape of the tiny Northern Rhône enclaves of Condrieu and Château Grillet, Viognier at this level of quality typically commands two or three times the price. That Alain Jaume has managed to capture its elusive magic in the Southern Rhône—at this price—is nothing short of remarkable, and not to be missed.The 2024 Blanc de Viognier opens with a fresh, inviting bouquet of sliced peach, apricot, and a hint of minerality. On the palate, it’s a marvel of plush flavors: honeysuckle, stone fruit, persimmon, and yellow apple, buoyed by acidity that is seamlessly embedded throughout. The long finish lets the fruit ripple along, with a final surge of minerality adding grace and lift. Drink now and over the next one to two years.
–– Ben Giliberti, CW Director of Wine Education